Introduction

Japan offers some of the most premier landscapes with endless beauty especially if you are willing to venture outside what is typical when most travelers visit Japan. Located south of Osaka within the Kii peninsula is a series of trails that lead travelers on an enlightening experience. Like most pilgrimages, this trail will challenge travelers. This is no ordinary hike where you travel from point A to B; there is a deeper meaning behind this journey. Travelers here must move with purpose and intention, taking in their surroundings and appreciating why they are doing this. So why are people still doing this ancient pilgrimage after so many years? For centuries, Japanese royalty, samurai, aristocrats, and citizens chose to walk these paths to pay homage to some of the spiritual shrines found along these trails offering time to reflect on their place in this world. Even the walk itself was deemed a purification process where people could connect deeper with their environment and grow a new appreciation for Japanese nature.

The Kumano Kodo trail isn’t actually a singular trail but instead a series of trails with varying starting points. This pilgrimage allows flexibility to design an experience that best fits your needs. This post will focus on the Nakahechi trail as it is the most preserved trail and makes logistical planning fairly straightforward. Before we get into the details of this journey there are some things travelers should know beforehand. In order to plan, reserve, and book your Kumano Kodo pilgrimage you must use the official website here. This website contains just about all of the logistics travelers will need along with informative resources, accommodations, and model itineraries people can use. As travelers make their way through the trail they will need accommodations for their overnight stay which can be booked through the site. There are many small villages along the trail and travelers can choose which village they want to stay in. Another highly suggested accommodation is booking your meals through the website so when you are finished hiking for the day and arrive to your stay, the establishment will have your meal ready. This is suggested as carrying your food can be very difficult and depending on the village and the time you arrive any stores offering food might be closed. Travel influencers Chris and Danya have created an excellent video on using the Kumano Kodo website which can be found here and detailing everything you will need to do so you may book your trip of a lifetime.

Osaka

Like many of the other posts, I like to kick things off at one of the country’s major cities to acclimate to the environment and to experience what urban life is like in that particular country. Osaka is a great starting point as it is one of Japan’s major cities and provides convenient train transportation to our next destination. Travelers should include the Osaka Castle Park on their list of places to see. Osaka Castle Park is conveniently located within the city center and holds major historical significance for this city. It was originally constructed as a Japanese military base in the 15th century and used for military purposes up until after World War II where it was reconstructed as an urban park. Stroll through the grounds and enjoy the various blossoms that inhabit the area while the Osaka castle towers over visitors. After enjoying some time at the park, be sure to make your way to the Umeda Sky Building which is a unique and major landmark of Osaka. This building consists of two 40 story towers that are connected via sky bridge. The rooftop observatory at the top provides panoramic views of the great Japanese city. 

Kumano Trail

In order to reach all three major shrines of the Kumano Kodo trail, I selected this itinerary from the Kumano Travel website. Once again, travelers have the ability to use this itinerary exactly or update it based on their desires but in order to reach the third major shrine there will have to be an extra step not listed on the itinerary. From Osaka, travelers will have to take either a train or bus to Kii-Tanabe station which ranges from two to three hours. Travelers should consider staying one night in Kii-Tanabe if they balk at the idea of taking a two hour train ride and then heading straight into their spiritual hike. Once in Kii-Tanabe hikers will take a 40 minute bus ride to Takijiri-Oji which is where you will find the information center and the trailhead for our journey. Be sure to stop by the information center before your trek to learn more about the spiritual walk and about the history of the trail. Using the sample itinerary, the first day of hiking is a bit over two miles leading to the town of Takahara. Takahara is nicknamed the village in the mist for good reason as its surrounding mountain views and valleys are often blanketed with a gray fog. Takahara also houses one of the oldest shrines in the region, the Takahara Kumano-jinja which sits under the village’s ancient trees. 

From Takahara, travelers will walk the eight miles to the Nonaka area where travelers will be able to rest and see another Kumano Kodo shrine, the Tsugizakura-oji. Here, travelers can peacefully reflect on their journey thus far and take in the tranquility that this shrine offers. Nearby is the Nonaka-no-Shimizu which is a centuries old spring with pure drinkable water that has been used by pilgrims for centuries. The next day is arguably one of the hardest days of hiking where travelers will have to walk 13.4 miles to the first major Kumano Kodo shrine, the Kumano Hongu Taisha. Hongu is considered the epicenter of the Kumano Ancient trail and serves as a great halfway mark of the journey. The north part of the village contains the grand shrine, the village’s heritage center, and other small shops.The south part of the village is actually the original location of the Kumano Hongu Taisha but was destroyed by major flooding. In Hongu, you will find one of the largest Torii gates in the world which signifies the entrance into the sacred area. Once travelers are finished enjoying the spiritual village and paying their respects they will take the local bus to Yunomine Onsen. This is where weary travelers will find their accommodations and rest after a long day’s journey. 

The next day travelers will once again enjoy a short bus ride back to the trail in Ukegawa and hike eight miles to the village of Koguchi. Koguchi is another small mountain village which will accommodate travelers as they rest up for the next day’s hike to the second grand shrine of Kumano Kodo, the Kumano Nachi Taisha. It is about an eight and a half mile hike to the town of Nachisan where you will find the grand shrine and some of the best views of the trail thus far. It is as this mountain top sanctuary you will be able pay respects to the shrine, enjoy views of the sacred waterfall, and if the weather is clear enough, the Pacific Ocean. This location is sure to present a deeper connection and stillness to your environment as it has been a point of interest for centuries. The Amida-ji Temple is considered a place of worship of Amida, the Buddha of Compassion and Wisdom. Meanwhile the waterfall has been a site of worship since the 4th century. The following day signals the closing of our journey as travelers will bus from Nachisan to the Kii-Katsuura station and take the short train to Shingu which is where the final shrine resides. The Kumano Hayatama Taisha is the perfect ending location of our pilgrimage as it is where the sacred river waters of the Kii mountains meet the Pacific Ocean. As you feel the ocean breeze caress your skin, take time to appreciate the challenging journey and why so many people before you decided to take on the Kumano Kodo trail.